Latex Weapons

LARP Approval

The OLD Way

1. Traditional boffer weapons only vaguely resemble real weapons, and they rarely affect the production value of a LARP event in a positive manner.

2. The traditional boffer weapons are prone to the foam and tape breaking down, especially near the tip. Tips often need replacement after only a few events, and many times the entire weapon needs to be remade.

3. Traditional Latex-based LARP weapons use foam that is almost 50% harder and heavier than the custom-made SPX-33 foam used in the Ex-Caliber products.

4. Safety varies according to the builder. Even though YOUR weapons are perfect, there are many weapons in use that are decidedly unsafe.

5. Traditional boffer weapons are rarely waterproof. Get caught in the rain just once and SCHLORP! - you now have a giant sponge that will never be the quite same again. See item #2 above.

The Top 10 Benefits of Knighthawk Armoury Weapons

1. Made using a carbon-fiber core, the tips are covered in Kevlar to prevent break-through. The carbon-fiber core is incredibly tough, resilient, ultra-lightweight, and unlike fiberglass or kite-spar, will not splinter, chip, or peel into strands. It is by far the best, safest material for use as a LARP weapon core.

2. The custom-made SPX-33 foam is designed specifically for use in a LARP environment. It spreads the force of a blow across an area of foam larger than that of the impact, then quickly re-expands. That's why you'll feel it when you get hit with one of these weapons, but it will not hurt and it will not leave a bruise! No other type of foam on the market today even comes close to this level of safety and durability.

3. These weapons are lighter than almost any home-grown weapon, allowing for a greater degree of control while providing for more speed during combat! The lighter weight also translates to less force being applied from each blow.

4. Each weapon is created by placing the core into an appropriate mold. Kevlar is applied to the tip to help prevent breakthrough during use. The injection equipment then applies the SPX-33 foam. After the foam dries, multiple layers of latex are applied to the weapon. It is then hand-painted, and the weapon is finished with a water-based sealant like the type used on surfboards. The point is that few individuals have access to either these materials or to this level of production technology. The end result is consistent, as well as safe and durable.

5. Each weapon is essentially a single piece of foam: there are no seams or weak spots. That's why even though the weapons are so light, they have absolutely ZERO whip!

6. And they are 100% waterproof!

7. Even if you crush and deform the latex on these weapons, they will revert to their original shape in a short time - which is between 5 minutes and 24 hours depending on the amount of abuse inflicted.

8. The Knighthawk Armoury weapons are an excellent value, because not only do they look GREAT, but over time you will not need to rebuild them.
   
   Think about it...to build a really good boffer weapon costs between $30 and $40, and if you only build one boffer a year, at the end of five years you will have spent between $150 and $200. Now compare that amount to the original investment you might have made in a Knighthawk Armoury weapon, and the value is obvious. Factor in the increased production value of your event and just the sheer "coolness" factor involved in owning and using them, and their value becomes overwhelming!

9. An EXTREMELY important point to consider is that these items are safe for children.
   
   Whether playing "Pirate" or "Frodo" or "He-Man", kids WILL beat on each other. PLEASE don't let them use sticks, or worse yet: plastic swords which break and splinter easily and can cause real damage!
   
   Not only are the Kighthawk Armoury weapons safe and durable, they look way more cool than anything else on the market! Every kid that has ever seen one of these has fallen in love with them!

10. They simply look awesome! Each of these weapons will significantly upgrade the production value of any LARP event, and of any individual costume. Nothing else that is safe to use even comes close.

Maintenance

• IMPORTANT: Store your weapons flat or on a solid pommel, ifthe weapon has one! Always use a lining when storing your weapon back if it might touch another product, especially one with a plastic or rubber surface. The lining can be a simple sheet or a towel. The lining will prevent your weapon from adhering to any other surface.

• Wipe off the blade with a moist washcloth after each game, then dry the weapon.

• Once a month or so, spray the weapon with silicon lubricant, and wipe the excess off. The material will expand and appear to be crackled; this is normal. The expanded latex will absorb the silicon residue and will return to normal in about 15 to 20 minutes. It will look like new and will be completely playable in about one hour.
  
  Any brand of silicon spray lubricant will work. You can get a huge can of "Gunk" brand Silicon Lubricant Spray for under $4.00.

• NEVER store the weapon on its tip.

• Do not store in an area with excessive heat or excessive moisture.

• Keep out of blender. Do not tease the cat (those claws are sharp!). Don't fight against real edged weapons (hint: you'll lose).

• If you do somehow manage to puncture, cut, or tear the weapon, get a latex-based adhesive and simply glue the foam back together. When the repair has dried, get a sealant (like is used to cover painted lead miniatures) and ensure that the repaired wound is sealed. This will restore the waterproof integrity of the item.
  
  For punctures and tears, you can use "Aleene's Tacky Glue" to fill in and repair wounds to the foam. Be generous. This stuff is white when wet but dries clear/translucent. Available from Hobby Lobby, it costs an enormous 89 cents per bottle. Another option is "Foam Builder". It's more difficult to use but is great for filling in large areas.
  
  The best sealant to use is "Through the Roof" rubber sealant - it's a flexible, clear sealant that won't harm the weapon or the paint - but it can be hard to find. Another option is Testor's brand matte, semi-gloss, or glossy Spray Lacquer Sealant; also available from Hobby Lobby.
  
  Remember to use the silicon spray after the sealant has cured.

Dealing With Dents

1. Perform standard maintenance. This means wipe down the weapon to remove all dirst and debris, dry it, then spray it with sillicon spray. remove the excess and let the weapon sit for 30 minutes.

2. Massage the dented area firmly for at least 3 minutes. Preferably five minutes or until your hand gets tired! :)

3. Let the weapon sit overnight.

4. Repeat for 4 nights. By the fifth night the dent will be gone.

Lessons Learned

• When fighting against someone wearing plate armour, BE SURE >>>NOT<<< to strike the edges of the armour!!! This usually occurs when you are standing beside the armoured individual and you swing out to the side - this causes the weapon to strike against the edge of the plate, and can easily cut the latex of your weapon.
  
  The simple rule is to always strike plate armour from the front or from the back, never from the side.

• Keep the blade off of the ground, especially the tip. Dirt, dust, and gravel act just like sandpaper on the surface of the latex sealant.

• These weapons are not baseball bats, so please do not swing them like a baseball bat. Only the Calimacil products can stand up to that level of full contact combat.

• These products are not canes, so please do not lean on the weapons. And in fact, you want to keep your weapon off of the ground. If for some reason you MUST put your weapon on the ground, put the pommel of a sword on the ground and hold the tip.

• Since the sealant used on these products is water-based, the latex used in these products is untouchable. This means that people with all but the most severe of latex allergies can safely use these items.
  
  Do not use a weapon that is cut or punctured. Ever. And please be sure to remember to re-seal any cuts or punctures after the wound has been repaired.

• Some LARPs will not allow the use of some new weapons because they believe the weapon is "too hard". Since the blades soften up with use, this can be corrected. You can manually soften up the business end of your weapon by forcibly and firmly squeezing and releasing the striking area. For swords, that means the last 12 inches of the blade; and for Axes that means the blades.
  
  Continue with the blade massage for at least 20 minutes. Repeat until the blade has softened up sufficiently to satisy your Safety Officer. You can also pound softness into the business end by simply using the weapon! It takes longer that way but is definitely more fun!   :)